Sunset exactly in the West

Port La Foret
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Sunset exactly in the West

So this is the last blog afloat this year - or at least, that’s the plan. As we know by now, it’s not always how things work out.

I though you might want to know what I do all day. First thing - after 2 cups of tea - I went for a run-walk along the coast towards Concarneau. I was going to say ‘passed’ but that would give the wrong impression - I encountered quite a few French runners and an old bloke who I think was having a bit of a laugh at us all. On my way back, he pointed out that was a yacht caught on the Concarneau rocks, which just goes to show that you can’t take too much for granted. It’s my theory that its usually the locals that do that sort of thing - the rest of us follow the pilot book and in the absence of horrible mistakes, do all right.

It’s hard to explain how impressive the tides are here. Tonight is the highest tide of the year and the yachts are practically peeping over the harbour wall.

Most of the rest of the day I spent washing things by hand, since the laundrette here seemed to be completely without any electricity. The yacht broker who looks after it was having a day off, with both his mobiles switched off. I did leave messages, but then I realised that what I should have done was find the most expensive boat in his window, call the mobiles and say that I wanted to buy it, but the transaction had to be concluded today!!

I made up a joke. Some of you might have heard the dog’s blog: Went for morning walk: my favorite thing! Had breakfast: my favorite thing! Barked at the postman: my favourite thing! (I expect you’re getting the idea now.)
There’s also a cat’s blog: This is the 937th day of my incarceration. I shat on the duvet to demonstrate my displeasure. Later, I brought in a decapitated mouse to show them what I am capable of. They said ‘Good cat, you’re showing us how much you love us!' I ground my sharp little teeth and licked my bottom clean. (You’re probably getting this idea too.) Now for the budgie’s blog. Well, don’t be silly, budgies don’t blog, they twitter. Har har. Are you feeling sorry for me yet?

After lunch (grilled cheese sandwich) I read a couple of chapters of RIVER HORSE (by William Least Heat Moon). This is an account of a river journey across America. At first I thought it was a bit boring, but then so are some of the rivers. WLHM has a dry style, and he reports little chunks of life he observes on the way, overheard in diners and bars. He has a companion he calls Pilotis. This person is actually a series of 5 or 6 people, and I have tried to spot the joins, without much success. The author doesn’t give any clues, not even gender. It’s a bit disconcerting since I assume that people are distinctive. So is LHM forcing them into a mould? Are they all fantastically literate and stoic? The boat is called NIKAWA (River Horse) and she’s a tough little beast, taking on huge barges, floods and the American Corps of Engineers. She has a couple of defining aphorisms, painted on various parts of her anatomy. The one I like best is ‘Proceed as the way opens’ just ahead of the steering position. The other is an injunction, borrowed from Joseph Conrad’s ‘HEART OF DARKNESS” - Avoid irritation! I think we might add these to Snork Maiden.

I’ve just started to wonder if people get to look like their boats, as they do with their dogs. I think they might.

Late in the afternoon I went swimming - there’s a beach right next to the marina. I wear a wet suit - the Atlantic is cold. Al always uses the mask and snorkel so I thought I would give it a go. I SAW FISH! It’s really quite exciting. And it’s just like entering another world with beaches, canyons, pools, rocks, weed… All the more fascinating because earlier in the day I have walked over it. Makes me think of the Drowned World.

Not much left to say, except the last floating sunset. It made me nostalgic for the first one that we saw afloat at Marans back in June. Looking forward to next season. We are well placed here to head for the Spanish reas, after a nice little shake-down cruise to the Iles Glenans Google them - they are a bunch of rocks and beaches with one of the best crab and lobster restaurants in Brittany. (I don’t think we want to hear the crustaceans blog, now do we?)

My bunk and River Horse are calling me!