LA ROCHELLE FILM FESTIVAL

Well - the summer isn't quite turning out as we thought it would!  Winds have been fairly consistently North and / or West with some days quite rainy too. We have had a few days swimming when we were at Boyardville and St Martin.  We came back into La Rochelle's Vieux Port on Thursday and decided to sit out the bad weather and go to some movies.  So far we have seen  new Icelandic film MEN AND HORSES - the irony of the title is that the strong characters are female - and, of course, the horses.  An unusual documentary about the Galician COAST OF DEATH - unbearably slow picture of a hard life in a tough environment when wind and mist dominate. 

    The festival is featuring the work of Howard Hawks so yesterday we went to a cowboy film RED RIVER.  Shot in black and white in a ratio that was almost square with a beautifully restored print. Story held up for over 2 hours and amazing shots of a 9000 head cattle drive that could probably never be done again outside of CGI.  The stampede scene and river crossings were incredible, although animals probably were harmed.  Made in 1948 the film begins with the issue of land grabbing and quickly moves on. The treatment of the indigenous population was as you might expect for the times with dispensable extras run off by the heroes and a token taciturn character carrying a running joke.  Music - and the whole experience actually - reminded me of Saturday morning pictures at the local cinema in Rhos on Sea - nine pence in old money covered the 3d (pence) admission, a packet of KP peanuts and a Kia Ora orange squash.   This morning we're up for THE BIG SKY.  

    Last night was a back-to-back all-nighter of which we managed to get through a French Classic from 1937 I think - Jean Renoir's LA GRAND ILLUSION - another lovingly restored print. Tough going linguistically - Al found it hard to follow and I just picked up the odd few words. A peacenick film at heart and heartbreakingly released as the Second World War was about to begin.

    I am ashamed to say that we ducked out of the free outdoor showing of Hitchcock's NORTH BY NORTHWEST on the grounds that it was so windy and rainy that it probably wouldn't go ahead. Clearly La Rochelle's festival goers are tougher than we are and sat it out while we were tucked up in our very cosy bunk on Snork Maiden. 

    And for you sailors - the mammoth new gates on the Chalutiers lock are now in place and working.

    Coming soon: we explore new places - maybe.  And just one last film...  The stunningly energetic GERONIMO fresh from Cannes. Watch out for this - also TIMBUKTU.  Both new releases.

    

LA ROCHELLE FILM FESTIVAL

Well - the summer isn't quite turning out as we thought it would!  Winds have been fairly consistently North and / or West with some days quite rainy too. We have had a few days swimming when we were at Boyardville and St Martin.  We came back into La Rochelle's Vieux Port on Thursday and decided to sit out the bad weather and go to some movies.  So far we have seen  new Icelandic film MEN AND HORSES - the irony of the title is that the strong characters are female - and, of course, the horses.  An unusual documentary about the Galician COAST OF DEATH - unbearably slow picture of a hard life in a tough environment when wind and mist dominate. 

    The festival is featuring the work of Howard Hawks so yesterday we went to a cowboy film RED RIVER.  Shot in black and white in a ratio that was almost square with a beautifully restored print. Story held up for over 2 hours and amazing shots of a 9000 head cattle drive that could probably never be done again outside of CGI.  The stampede scene and river crossings were incredible, although animals probably were harmed.  Made in 1948 the film begins with the issue of land grabbing and quickly moves on. The treatment of the indigenous population was as you might expect for the times with dispensable extras run off by the heroes and a token taciturn character carrying a running joke.  Music - and the whole experience actually - reminded me of Saturday morning pictures at the local cinema in Rhos on Sea - nine pence in old money covered the 3d (pence) admission, a packet of KP peanuts and a Kia Ora orange squash.   This morning we're up for THE BIG SKY.  

    Last night was a back-to-back all-nighter of which we managed to get through a French Classic from 1937 I think - Jean Renoir's LA GRAND ILLUSION - another lovingly restored print. Tough going linguistically - Al found it hard to follow and I just picked up the odd few words. A peacenick film at heart and heartbreakingly released as the Second World War was about to begin.

    I am ashamed to say that we ducked out of the free outdoor showing of Hitchcock's NORTH BY NORTHWEST on the grounds that it was so windy and rainy that it probably wouldn't go ahead. Clearly La Rochelle's festival goers are tougher than we are and sat it out while we were tucked up in our very cosy bunk on Snork Maiden. 

    And for you sailors - the mammoth new gates on the Chalutiers lock are now in place and working.

    Coming soon: we explore new places - maybe.  And just one last film...  The stunningly energetic GERONIMO fresh from Cannes. Watch out for this - also TIMBUKTU.  Both new releases.

    

AL & La Rochelle

Hello Virtual Shipmates

So we have been in La Rochelle for a couple of nights - since the third one is free, we just can't resist!

Since Al arrived a week ago we had a few easy days in Marans - got the second anchor kitted up with a nice new chain & rope in preparation for all those lovely Spanish Rias.  La R is as seductive as always with its 3rd night free, terrific ice cream but a disappointing sardine & squid experience at the P'tit Bateau Bleu.

Tomorrow we set off for Ile d'Oleron - just a short hop but hope to get a nice sailing breeze and make sure that the autopilot is under our control.  (Really this is a matter of good sail set as all you salts will appreciate.)  If we are truly going to the land of Flamenco & tapas, we need a good reliable 3rd hand - and this one doesn't answer back!

Mainly English boats on our pontoon - well, i suppose the French live here anyway.  For yo TV people - Sunny Side of the Doc is on - so lots of overheard conversations about the seamier side of filmmaking.  

OK - time to go and prepare the supper.

Trip from Marans uneventful - little wind; motor on to charge batteries.  Al has new iPhone and is taking pix like .....  anything.  

 Our berth in Marans.  Ducks, reedwarblers as neighbours! This is an old canalgoing to Niort - also a branch to La Rochelle but much of this is not maintained.

And here we are in our berth

Entering the La Rochelle old harbour

New lock gates for the Chaloutieres Bassin - yes, they are big!

Coming soon - Ile de Oleron!

AL & La Rochelle

Hello Virtual Shipmates

So we have been in La Rochelle for a couple of nights - since the third one is free, we just can't resist!

Since Al arrived a week ago we had a few easy days in Marans - got the second anchor kitted up with a nice new chain & rope in preparation for all those lovely Spanish Rias.  La R is as seductive as always with its 3rd night free, terrific ice cream but a disappointing sardine & squid experience at the P'tit Bateau Bleu.

Tomorrow we set off for Ile d'Oleron - just a short hop but hope to get a nice sailing breeze and make sure that the autopilot is under our control.  (Really this is a matter of good sail set as all you salts will appreciate.)  If we are truly going to the land of Flamenco & tapas, we need a good reliable 3rd hand - and this one doesn't answer back!

Mainly English boats on our pontoon - well, i suppose the French live here anyway.  For yo TV people - Sunny Side of the Doc is on - so lots of overheard conversations about the seamier side of filmmaking.  

OK - time to go and prepare the supper.

Trip from Marans uneventful - little wind; motor on to charge batteries.  Al has new iPhone and is taking pix like .....  anything.  

 Our berth in Marans.  Ducks, reedwarblers as neighbours! This is an old canalgoing to Niort - also a branch to La Rochelle but much of this is not maintained.

And here we are in our berth

Entering the La Rochelle old harbour

New lock gates for the Chaloutieres Bassin - yes, they are big!

Coming soon - Ile de Oleron!

CHARRON

So what happened between the ferry and Marans?  Well - there was just over a week at Philippe Julien's yard in Charron - 10 K from Marans.  During which time I anti-fouled the lovely Snork Maiden with 3L of Cruiser Uno in smart navy.  Marylene drove over from Rosas and the two of us spent a happy few days in a maze of closed cell foam and glue, dealing with a sort of vinyl polar bear skin that is the forepeak lining.  Results were better than we dared hope, and although there are some edges that need to be dealt with in due course.  The main thing is that the forepeak is now fully functional for sails, baggage, boarding ladder and human crew.  Yippee.  

 Oh yes - the protective clothing! Pity they only sell these suits in XL sizes.  Glam eh?

It wasn't all work though - we found the great little La Ponetere restaurant next to the boatyard and managed to eat there twice in a very few days.  The cook knows what she is doing with seafood and the view can be pretty stunning.

 COMING SOON:  AL via EASYJET

CHARRON

So what happened between the ferry and Marans?  Well - there was just over a week at Philippe Julien's yard in Charron - 10 K from Marans.  During which time I anti-fouled the lovely Snork Maiden with 3L of Cruiser Uno in smart navy.  Marylene drove over from Rosas and the two of us spent a happy few days in a maze of closed cell foam and glue, dealing with a sort of vinyl polar bear skin that is the forepeak lining.  Results were better than we dared hope, and although there are some edges that need to be dealt with in due course.  The main thing is that the forepeak is now fully functional for sails, baggage, boarding ladder and human crew.  Yippee.  

 Oh yes - the protective clothing! Pity they only sell these suits in XL sizes.  Glam eh?

It wasn't all work though - we found the great little La Ponetere restaurant next to the boatyard and managed to eat there twice in a very few days.  The cook knows what she is doing with seafood and the view can be pretty stunning.

 COMING SOON:  AL via EASYJET

MARANS AGAIN

So here we are back in on our 'catway' in Marans.  The original plan was to go for a short cruise leaving on Thursday, but a phone call and family drama called Marylene back to her maternal role and she took off for Spain yesterday.  There is plenty to keep me occupied - never a moment when there isn't something that can be done - aside from social media and just chilling out reading.  Yesterday's errand - a trip into La Rochelle for a spark plug, a tin of varnish (for the boat hook - watch this space) and a nice lunch at our favourite restaurant in Minimes.  (Nice thing about eating alone - you always feel like it's half-price!)

Just to remind you what Marans looks like:

The Old Chat Noir - now re-named the Marans Cafe.

Not sure what happened to the colours here!  Time to download photo software for the iPhone 5!  

Get that typeface!

MARANS AGAIN

So here we are back in on our 'catway' in Marans.  The original plan was to go for a short cruise leaving on Thursday, but a phone call and family drama called Marylene back to her maternal role and she took off for Spain yesterday.  There is plenty to keep me occupied - never a moment when there isn't something that can be done - aside from social media and just chilling out reading.  Yesterday's errand - a trip into La Rochelle for a spark plug, a tin of varnish (for the boat hook - watch this space) and a nice lunch at our favourite restaurant in Minimes.  (Nice thing about eating alone - you always feel like it's half-price!)

Just to remind you what Marans looks like:

The Old Chat Noir - now re-named the Marans Cafe.

Not sure what happened to the colours here!  Time to download photo software for the iPhone 5!  

Get that typeface!

FERRYGEDDON

FERRYGEDDON

Usually I sleep really well on a ferry but not this time !  I had a sandwich on the way down so skipped supper and settled for a weak earl grey tea in my cabin. Then we left Plymouth and after a quick look out of the round window to see the red buoys sliding by, I read for about 5 minutes, set the alarm for 0530, put the light out and looked forward to an unbroken 6  or 7 hours sleep - not to be! I felt as though I was waking up every half hour or so, eventually putting this down to the position of the cabin directly over several hundred (or maybe thousands) diesel horsepower. The old Brittany ferries were kind of like that with cabins way below the car decks. This one is the Armorique, the flagship of the new fleet with hotel style rooms, TV (no signal) tea making & shower. Speaking of which, I am getting out of bed to have one.

Coming soon....  Another year, another coat of Cruser Uno (just kidding)

FERRYGEDDON

FERRYGEDDON

Usually I sleep really well on a ferry but not this time !  I had a sandwich on the way down so skipped supper and settled for a weak earl grey tea in my cabin. Then we left Plymouth and after a quick look out of the round window to see the red buoys sliding by, I read for about 5 minutes, set the alarm for 0530, put the light out and looked forward to an unbroken 6  or 7 hours sleep - not to be! I felt as though I was waking up every half hour or so, eventually putting this down to the position of the cabin directly over several hundred (or maybe thousands) diesel horsepower. The old Brittany ferries were kind of like that with cabins way below the car decks. This one is the Armorique, the flagship of the new fleet with hotel style rooms, TV (no signal) tea making & shower. Speaking of which, I am getting out of bed to have one.

Coming soon....  Another year, another coat of Cruser Uno (just kidding)

KIT for a Med / Atlantic yacht delivery in April / May

So how do you keep warm and dry in the marine environment?  It's fairly well acknowledged that women tend to feel the cold more than men do, so that should give you some context for what follows.

Outer kit MUSTO BR1 jacket and salopettes 2014 model (seen here) - also worn with SeaGo harness / self-inflating life jacket.  Next layer down - days and warmer nights PYD micro-fleece (supplied by company); cooler nights North Face Polartec jacket, both worn with lightweight capri length North Face trousers.  Next layer Icebreaker long sleeve merino vest & long pants over lightweight bra & pants.  Icebreakers 200 / everyday grade. Most nights I added a merino gilet - also Icebreaker 260. For the coldest nights (Atlantic) I added a 260 Icebreaker long sleeve merino or a Katmandu merino half zip top - also 260. Footwear - only able to take sea boots (Gill) worn with thick socks most days. Crocs on warm days but they can be a bit slippy for deck work - just all I had at the time, and light to pack.  Other things - I wore a Buff tube with UV protection to keep sun off my head and hair off my face.  An additional fleecy Buff for more warmth around the neck, and a Buff peaky hat for a change. Gloves - usually fingerless for sun protection in the day and some cheapie Gill grips for warmth at night. If it had been any colder I would have needed thicker, waterproof gloves. Warmer hat and hood up for cold nights were also essential. Merino underwear worn most of the time, even in sleeping bag.  On hot days - noon, afternoon watch - I needed to peel off layers not to get too hot - surprisingly easy for this to happen, especially when changing clothes is a bit of a challenge.  Sleeping - I only had my outdoor 4 season down bag and this proved a great comfort.

http://www.force4.co.uk/5849/Musto-BR1-Channel-Jacket-Navy-Platinum.html

None of this kit is cheap but merino has huge advantages in terms of being warm, not too hot, and it really doesn't get stinky worn continuously.  Alternating 2 base layer tops ensures a bit of recovery time.
My male companions both wore the heavier duty Musto BR2's - I tried these on at our local (very) Force Four but felt that the heavier weight was more restrictive.  The women's BR1 is well designed - my only criticism is that there are no hand-warmer pockets on the salopettes which leaves the hands a bit adrift when not steering!
I think that's about it - shore clothes at a minimum - denim jacket, jeans, capris from FatFace, T-shirt, long-sleeved cotton top.  Had to pack everything into 18Kg hold baggage (extra space for skipper's almanac & tool kit) plus hand baggage.  Books - only one plus essential Kindle & audiobooks on iPhone.
Other essentials: head torch for night watch, apron for cooking messy stuff at an angle and keeping grease off clothes, sharp knife in sheath. 
Hope this is useful - any comments / questions welcome.

KIT for a Med / Atlantic yacht delivery in April / May

So how do you keep warm and dry in the marine environment?  It's fairly well acknowledged that women tend to feel the cold more than men do, so that should give you some context for what follows.

Outer kit MUSTO BR1 jacket and salopettes 2014 model (seen here) - also worn with SeaGo harness / self-inflating life jacket.  Next layer down - days and warmer nights PYD micro-fleece (supplied by company); cooler nights North Face Polartec jacket, both worn with lightweight capri length North Face trousers.  Next layer Icebreaker long sleeve merino vest & long pants over lightweight bra & pants.  Icebreakers 200 / everyday grade. Most nights I added a merino gilet - also Icebreaker 260. For the coldest nights (Atlantic) I added a 260 Icebreaker long sleeve merino or a Katmandu merino half zip top - also 260. Footwear - only able to take sea boots (Gill) worn with thick socks most days. Crocs on warm days but they can be a bit slippy for deck work - just all I had at the time, and light to pack.  Other things - I wore a Buff tube with UV protection to keep sun off my head and hair off my face.  An additional fleecy Buff for more warmth around the neck, and a Buff peaky hat for a change. Gloves - usually fingerless for sun protection in the day and some cheapie Gill grips for warmth at night. If it had been any colder I would have needed thicker, waterproof gloves. Warmer hat and hood up for cold nights were also essential. Merino underwear worn most of the time, even in sleeping bag.  On hot days - noon, afternoon watch - I needed to peel off layers not to get too hot - surprisingly easy for this to happen, especially when changing clothes is a bit of a challenge.  Sleeping - I only had my outdoor 4 season down bag and this proved a great comfort.

http://www.force4.co.uk/5849/Musto-BR1-Channel-Jacket-Navy-Platinum.html

None of this kit is cheap but merino has huge advantages in terms of being warm, not too hot, and it really doesn't get stinky worn continuously.  Alternating 2 base layer tops ensures a bit of recovery time.
My male companions both wore the heavier duty Musto BR2's - I tried these on at our local (very) Force Four but felt that the heavier weight was more restrictive.  The women's BR1 is well designed - my only criticism is that there are no hand-warmer pockets on the salopettes which leaves the hands a bit adrift when not steering!
I think that's about it - shore clothes at a minimum - denim jacket, jeans, capris from FatFace, T-shirt, long-sleeved cotton top.  Had to pack everything into 18Kg hold baggage (extra space for skipper's almanac & tool kit) plus hand baggage.  Books - only one plus essential Kindle & audiobooks on iPhone.
Other essentials: head torch for night watch, apron for cooking messy stuff at an angle and keeping grease off clothes, sharp knife in sheath. 
Hope this is useful - any comments / questions welcome.

CAMARINAS ... and MUXIA (MUGLIA)

 

This cute little place is Muxia – a small Galicean town that turned out to be our last re-fuelling point for our Bay of Biscay crossing.  We first stopped at Camarinas – a cute town flanked by pines.  The pilot book (REEDS) and the iPad (software by Garmin Bluechart) were unanimous in their insistence that Camarinas marina had diesel fuel on tap.  Wrong.  They really don’t.  The marina – just a couple of pontoons really – is run by the yacht club and they seem to be in the process of constructing a new tank etc.  it didn’t look like it would be ready anytime soon.  My informant (Yacht club security chap, a bit embarrassed because he missed our arrival due to being in the café) told us that there was definitely fuel by tanker (camion) across the way at Muxia.  

This turned out to be true, but at  first the harbour looked a bit unpromising with a few fishing boats and masses of empty pontoons and no obvious place to take on fuel.  Soon we were joined by a Marina chap who explained that he would order the tanker for the morning as soon as there was enough depth of tide to allow us to berth on the closest pontoon to the shore.  He put us into a 12m finger pontoon berth where we would be safe from night visitors, electricity, water available.  This marina deserves to be busy in the season and is a neat stop for boats as they enter / leave Biscay.  The town has clearly made a substantial invested in this facility in the hope of attracting more tourism.

Hooray – a night out!  We eat supper and head for the nearest bar with wifi (actually we did a quick recce of the shops first so I could do a lightening food run in the morning).  All this preceeded by a quick shower and hair wash in the en suite with still-hot water from the engine (indirectly).

COMING SOON - we really do cross the Bay of Biscay (Gulf de Gascoigne).  

CAMARINAS ... and MUXIA (MUGLIA)

 

This cute little place is Muxia – a small Galicean town that turned out to be our last re-fuelling point for our Bay of Biscay crossing.  We first stopped at Camarinas – a cute town flanked by pines.  The pilot book (REEDS) and the iPad (software by Garmin Bluechart) were unanimous in their insistence that Camarinas marina had diesel fuel on tap.  Wrong.  They really don’t.  The marina – just a couple of pontoons really – is run by the yacht club and they seem to be in the process of constructing a new tank etc.  it didn’t look like it would be ready anytime soon.  My informant (Yacht club security chap, a bit embarrassed because he missed our arrival due to being in the café) told us that there was definitely fuel by tanker (camion) across the way at Muxia.  

This turned out to be true, but at  first the harbour looked a bit unpromising with a few fishing boats and masses of empty pontoons and no obvious place to take on fuel.  Soon we were joined by a Marina chap who explained that he would order the tanker for the morning as soon as there was enough depth of tide to allow us to berth on the closest pontoon to the shore.  He put us into a 12m finger pontoon berth where we would be safe from night visitors, electricity, water available.  This marina deserves to be busy in the season and is a neat stop for boats as they enter / leave Biscay.  The town has clearly made a substantial invested in this facility in the hope of attracting more tourism.

Hooray – a night out!  We eat supper and head for the nearest bar with wifi (actually we did a quick recce of the shops first so I could do a lightening food run in the morning).  All this preceeded by a quick shower and hair wash in the en suite with still-hot water from the engine (indirectly).

COMING SOON - we really do cross the Bay of Biscay (Gulf de Gascoigne).  

THE TRIP IN NUMBERS

Turkey - Gosport delivery - here are some trip stats:

Crew: 3
Miles covered:        3372
Days on Board:    35
Night hours:    54 (each)
Meals prepared: 22(each)
Litres of olive oil consumed: 3

Places visited: 
Marmaris, Turkey*
Ios, Zakinthos - Greece
Reggio Calabria* - Palermo*  - Sicily
Porto Corallo, Carloforte,* Isola di San Pietro - Sardinia
Palma* Majorca
San Jose - Spain
Gibraltar*
Sines,  Penishe, Porto - Portugal
Camarinas - Mugia *(Muxia)
Dartmouth, Gosport

Several of these were 'fuel hits'.  * overnights.  Most of these stop-overs were driven by the need to re-fuel ONO's rather small diesel tank.  The capacity was 138 litres - at 3 litres per hour just short of 2 days' motoring.  With many days of wind 'on the nose' we motor-sailed much of the way.  This enabled an optimal course and speed (average 5 knots) to be maintained.  Biscay was an exception - it took 5 days to get across (see previous post for the track).  This had to be sailed since not enough fuel make the crossing under engine.  The wind direction meant that we took a course well offshore.  Wind was still against us as we approached the 'English' Channel (La Manche to the French) so more engine to get us to Gosport.

COMING SOON: KIT, FOOD, NAVIGATION, THE NEEDLES CHANNEL

THE TRIP IN NUMBERS

Turkey - Gosport delivery - here are some trip stats:

Crew: 3
Miles covered:        3372
Days on Board:    35
Night hours:    54 (each)
Meals prepared: 22(each)
Litres of olive oil consumed: 3

Places visited: 
Marmaris, Turkey*
Ios, Zakinthos - Greece
Reggio Calabria* - Palermo*  - Sicily
Porto Corallo, Carloforte,* Isola di San Pietro - Sardinia
Palma* Majorca
San Jose - Spain
Gibraltar*
Sines,  Penishe, Porto - Portugal
Camarinas - Mugia *(Muxia)
Dartmouth, Gosport

Several of these were 'fuel hits'.  * overnights.  Most of these stop-overs were driven by the need to re-fuel ONO's rather small diesel tank.  The capacity was 138 litres - at 3 litres per hour just short of 2 days' motoring.  With many days of wind 'on the nose' we motor-sailed much of the way.  This enabled an optimal course and speed (average 5 knots) to be maintained.  Biscay was an exception - it took 5 days to get across (see previous post for the track).  This had to be sailed since not enough fuel make the crossing under engine.  The wind direction meant that we took a course well offshore.  Wind was still against us as we approached the 'English' Channel (La Manche to the French) so more engine to get us to Gosport.

COMING SOON: KIT, FOOD, NAVIGATION, THE NEEDLES CHANNEL

THE ATLANTIC / BAY OF BISCAY

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Wednesday, 7 May 14

THE ATLANTIC / BAY OF BISCAY

Actually we are not even at the bay proper – we still have to make our way up the Portuguese coast.  It is not going to be a very pleasant run since the wind is ugly – quite a bit of it ‘on the nose’ as we say, so progress is mainly on the engine with a bit of assistance from a close hauled 2-reef main (just sailing stuff – pass over if you don’t understand).  I am off shift until 1800 so I have the ‘sunset watch’ until 2100 then off until 0300 (yes, that is the middle of the night, but on a long trip like this it’s how it has to be).  Unless there is anything complicated to do with sails, we are each on our own on the night watch.  The person who has come off watch is understandably keen to get back to bed,  after handing over the position, course, current and expected wind and pointing out any other vessels visible.  As many of you know, there is a set of complicated ‘rules of the road’ to establish who keeps their course and who gives way.  Inside the boat, the noise levels are quite high: the engine, the radio, the wind and the sound of the waves ‘slamming’ on the hull, loudest by far in the forepeak – my cabin.  (On the plus side I have a very welcome ‘en suite’ to myself.)

But what I really want to talk about is feeling lonely!  The blokes are fine, but that’s what they are – blokes! I want my women friends and my husband.  I have been away for almost 4 weeks – it’s hard to describe how a trip like this affects me.  It is a journey in every sense.  For the first couple of weeks I felt I was revisiting the past – especially as we crossed stretches of the Mediterranean that I have a history with.  As John Lennon put it “the people and things that went before… some for ever, some for better, in my life I’ve loved them all...” or something like that.  Then in the third week I began to review the present and now I am so much into the future that I feel completely homesick.  Once you have signed up for a voyage there is really no way to cut it short – you owe it to yourself, the crew and not least the boat to follow through.  Also this week I have started to listen to audio books on the night watch.  When we are on the engine we can use the autopilot – it’s reliable and uncomplaining and so long as we are motoring, it doesn’t drain the batteries.  The skipper likes us to spend the majority of our watch time in the cockpit – watching for ships, pots, sea monsters and the occasional passing dolphin.  When we are under sail only, it’s a different matter – we hand-steer the boat and that way the 3-hour watch passes quite quickly.  Once an hour we fill in the log – recording our position (from the GPS), distance run, course we are steering, wind strength and direction and state of the bilges. 

I am a bit limited for Audiobooks, but I have been listening to free download of Philip Norman’s biog of John Lennon and it is, of course, like a trip through my own teen years.  I sing the songs quietly to myself as they are written, recorded, performed.  Last night a Jack Reacher novel did the job of sending me to sleep in my thumping dog basket. I have just downloaded Keith Richard’s LIFE on Marylene’s recommendation.  I’d like part 2 of John Lennon – he is just about to meet Yoko.  And I am intrigued by Tom Archer’s apparent breakdown on his way to the altar.

Often, at night, in my head, I write essays, have ideas for books and theses, conversations I want to have, letters I‘d like to write, books I need to read, music I must hear… then in the morning light they vanish with stars.  The sun comes up and the day takes over.

Now Mike is cooking supper, I take over the watch again at 1800 so I will rest & read for a bit.  Today has gone fast with our little stop in Portugal.

Monday Morning Muxia 

In a hurry - have to get shopping and back to boat in time to refuel at 0900.  Skipper gets restless once he has made up his mind to go!  Winds for Biscay looking not too bad - some sailing wind then I'm afraid some North - close haul or motor sail.  Camaret next In'shalla.  Should take 3-4 days.  Sorry - no time for pix.  Wish us fair winds.

THE ATLANTIC / BAY OF BISCAY

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Wednesday, 7 May 14

THE ATLANTIC / BAY OF BISCAY

Actually we are not even at the bay proper – we still have to make our way up the Portuguese coast.  It is not going to be a very pleasant run since the wind is ugly – quite a bit of it ‘on the nose’ as we say, so progress is mainly on the engine with a bit of assistance from a close hauled 2-reef main (just sailing stuff – pass over if you don’t understand).  I am off shift until 1800 so I have the ‘sunset watch’ until 2100 then off until 0300 (yes, that is the middle of the night, but on a long trip like this it’s how it has to be).  Unless there is anything complicated to do with sails, we are each on our own on the night watch.  The person who has come off watch is understandably keen to get back to bed,  after handing over the position, course, current and expected wind and pointing out any other vessels visible.  As many of you know, there is a set of complicated ‘rules of the road’ to establish who keeps their course and who gives way.  Inside the boat, the noise levels are quite high: the engine, the radio, the wind and the sound of the waves ‘slamming’ on the hull, loudest by far in the forepeak – my cabin.  (On the plus side I have a very welcome ‘en suite’ to myself.)

But what I really want to talk about is feeling lonely!  The blokes are fine, but that’s what they are – blokes! I want my women friends and my husband.  I have been away for almost 4 weeks – it’s hard to describe how a trip like this affects me.  It is a journey in every sense.  For the first couple of weeks I felt I was revisiting the past – especially as we crossed stretches of the Mediterranean that I have a history with.  As John Lennon put it “the people and things that went before… some for ever, some for better, in my life I’ve loved them all...” or something like that.  Then in the third week I began to review the present and now I am so much into the future that I feel completely homesick.  Once you have signed up for a voyage there is really no way to cut it short – you owe it to yourself, the crew and not least the boat to follow through.  Also this week I have started to listen to audio books on the night watch.  When we are on the engine we can use the autopilot – it’s reliable and uncomplaining and so long as we are motoring, it doesn’t drain the batteries.  The skipper likes us to spend the majority of our watch time in the cockpit – watching for ships, pots, sea monsters and the occasional passing dolphin.  When we are under sail only, it’s a different matter – we hand-steer the boat and that way the 3-hour watch passes quite quickly.  Once an hour we fill in the log – recording our position (from the GPS), distance run, course we are steering, wind strength and direction and state of the bilges. 

I am a bit limited for Audiobooks, but I have been listening to free download of Philip Norman’s biog of John Lennon and it is, of course, like a trip through my own teen years.  I sing the songs quietly to myself as they are written, recorded, performed.  Last night a Jack Reacher novel did the job of sending me to sleep in my thumping dog basket. I have just downloaded Keith Richard’s LIFE on Marylene’s recommendation.  I’d like part 2 of John Lennon – he is just about to meet Yoko.  And I am intrigued by Tom Archer’s apparent breakdown on his way to the altar.

Often, at night, in my head, I write essays, have ideas for books and theses, conversations I want to have, letters I‘d like to write, books I need to read, music I must hear… then in the morning light they vanish with stars.  The sun comes up and the day takes over.

Now Mike is cooking supper, I take over the watch again at 1800 so I will rest & read for a bit.  Today has gone fast with our little stop in Portugal.

Monday Morning Muxia 

In a hurry - have to get shopping and back to boat in time to refuel at 0900.  Skipper gets restless once he has made up his mind to go!  Winds for Biscay looking not too bad - some sailing wind then I'm afraid some North - close haul or motor sail.  Camaret next In'shalla.  Should take 3-4 days.  Sorry - no time for pix.  Wish us fair winds.

GIBRALTER

May 3 2014
We go to the tiny port of San Jose for fuel.  I have never seen so many restaurants in one place!  There is a small port, a small beach, lots of holiday lets and about 100 small restaurants.  We had just had lunch so no sardines for me.

Sunday and here we are in Gib after motoring pretty much since the last stop over night stop in Palma.  The genoa has been up a few times to assist the engine and keep up the speed.  This is a pit stop - we leave again tomorrow to get through the straits in light winds.  Next - the Atlantic.  We say goodbye to the Med.

Forecast suggests we leave soon.  Wish us fair winds!

GIBRALTER

May 3 2014
We go to the tiny port of San Jose for fuel.  I have never seen so many restaurants in one place!  There is a small port, a small beach, lots of holiday lets and about 100 small restaurants.  We had just had lunch so no sardines for me.

Sunday and here we are in Gib after motoring pretty much since the last stop over night stop in Palma.  The genoa has been up a few times to assist the engine and keep up the speed.  This is a pit stop - we leave again tomorrow to get through the straits in light winds.  Next - the Atlantic.  We say goodbye to the Med.

Forecast suggests we leave soon.  Wish us fair winds!

SLEEPING

SLEEPING

There is something absolutely soporific about the motion of this boat!  ONO makes it almost impossible to stay awake off watch.  I start to read or write and soon my eyes close and I am off again.  We have a 3-hours-on-6-hours-off watch system – so today I went off watch just after midnight, slept until 0520 when Richard knocks on my door and wakes me up for the 0600-0900.  This is the most social watch with the blokes up for breakfast, and the time I am least likely to go back to sleep.  With another 60 Miles or so to get to Palma, my next watch will be 1500.  At the moment we have virtually no wind and have been on the engine since we left Sardinia – the mainsail is up and gives a little drive from time to time but we are probably short of fuel to make it into Majorca.  We will be passing one of my favourite anchorages with KiwiStar – the small island of Cabrera, 30 M South of Palma.  

Back to sleep – which often seems to be deep and dreamless.  It seems obvious but once I have made my ‘nest’ of foams, sleeping bag and pillow I am enclosed in a drifting womb-like space where it almost feels that I am floating.  If there is a sea running and ONO is surfing down waves, I am quite literally weightless for a moment – a bit like the split second when you go over a humpback bridge in a car.  The landing though is soft and pleasant, and even a boat at sea probably goes through less movement that a pregnant woman in the course of normal life.  I truly believe that even the most dedicated of insomniacs could resist.  This in spite of wave slamming, engine, radio, whistling kettle, creaking boom, rattling blocks….  The skipper, of course, is a special case and will wake to anything out of the ordinary.  Slamming is what happens when the boat reaches the bottom of the wave and crashes into it before rising up and over the next one.  It sounds like a big soft sledgehammer, hitting the hull and sometimes making it shudder in a way that really makes you trust and respect the designers and builders at Beneteau.