THE ATLANTIC / BAY OF BISCAY

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Wednesday, 7 May 14

THE ATLANTIC / BAY OF BISCAY

Actually we are not even at the bay proper – we still have to make our way up the Portuguese coast.  It is not going to be a very pleasant run since the wind is ugly – quite a bit of it ‘on the nose’ as we say, so progress is mainly on the engine with a bit of assistance from a close hauled 2-reef main (just sailing stuff – pass over if you don’t understand).  I am off shift until 1800 so I have the ‘sunset watch’ until 2100 then off until 0300 (yes, that is the middle of the night, but on a long trip like this it’s how it has to be).  Unless there is anything complicated to do with sails, we are each on our own on the night watch.  The person who has come off watch is understandably keen to get back to bed,  after handing over the position, course, current and expected wind and pointing out any other vessels visible.  As many of you know, there is a set of complicated ‘rules of the road’ to establish who keeps their course and who gives way.  Inside the boat, the noise levels are quite high: the engine, the radio, the wind and the sound of the waves ‘slamming’ on the hull, loudest by far in the forepeak – my cabin.  (On the plus side I have a very welcome ‘en suite’ to myself.)

But what I really want to talk about is feeling lonely!  The blokes are fine, but that’s what they are – blokes! I want my women friends and my husband.  I have been away for almost 4 weeks – it’s hard to describe how a trip like this affects me.  It is a journey in every sense.  For the first couple of weeks I felt I was revisiting the past – especially as we crossed stretches of the Mediterranean that I have a history with.  As John Lennon put it “the people and things that went before… some for ever, some for better, in my life I’ve loved them all...” or something like that.  Then in the third week I began to review the present and now I am so much into the future that I feel completely homesick.  Once you have signed up for a voyage there is really no way to cut it short – you owe it to yourself, the crew and not least the boat to follow through.  Also this week I have started to listen to audio books on the night watch.  When we are on the engine we can use the autopilot – it’s reliable and uncomplaining and so long as we are motoring, it doesn’t drain the batteries.  The skipper likes us to spend the majority of our watch time in the cockpit – watching for ships, pots, sea monsters and the occasional passing dolphin.  When we are under sail only, it’s a different matter – we hand-steer the boat and that way the 3-hour watch passes quite quickly.  Once an hour we fill in the log – recording our position (from the GPS), distance run, course we are steering, wind strength and direction and state of the bilges. 

I am a bit limited for Audiobooks, but I have been listening to free download of Philip Norman’s biog of John Lennon and it is, of course, like a trip through my own teen years.  I sing the songs quietly to myself as they are written, recorded, performed.  Last night a Jack Reacher novel did the job of sending me to sleep in my thumping dog basket. I have just downloaded Keith Richard’s LIFE on Marylene’s recommendation.  I’d like part 2 of John Lennon – he is just about to meet Yoko.  And I am intrigued by Tom Archer’s apparent breakdown on his way to the altar.

Often, at night, in my head, I write essays, have ideas for books and theses, conversations I want to have, letters I‘d like to write, books I need to read, music I must hear… then in the morning light they vanish with stars.  The sun comes up and the day takes over.

Now Mike is cooking supper, I take over the watch again at 1800 so I will rest & read for a bit.  Today has gone fast with our little stop in Portugal.

Monday Morning Muxia 

In a hurry - have to get shopping and back to boat in time to refuel at 0900.  Skipper gets restless once he has made up his mind to go!  Winds for Biscay looking not too bad - some sailing wind then I'm afraid some North - close haul or motor sail.  Camaret next In'shalla.  Should take 3-4 days.  Sorry - no time for pix.  Wish us fair winds.