The Cage Opens

Roses seems to do very well in Crete.  The one is scented and almost the size of my face!  There is also a highly scented hedge bordering the garden of our rented house, as well as honeysuckle.  Fantastic scents in the evening.  The swimming pool is ready to be filled, our box from Bristol (more T shirts, new binoculars, better sun cream, new Greek recipe book, Italian coffee, more tea…) arrived yesterday after a 2-week delay at this end.  Heartfelt thanks to Cleo, our house sitter who packed the box exactly as I would myself!

 Monday 4 May, Crete, Greece
Today restrictions are lifted on travel within your own prefecture, in our case, Chania.  This gives us access to the city itself, to several beaches, wild mountain and peninsular walks, gorges and villages other than our own.  So what did we do?  Actually we stayed home!  Partly because the weather wasn’t so great, partly though, because going out still seems a little strange and frightening.  We are aware that if people react as if the virus has just vanished away, they will become careless and invite it back into their lives.  It is out there, as sure as there are landmines in that clear desert.
Tuesday
My usual shopping day, so I set out for the greengrocer and supermarket as usual, with mask, gloves ‘quarantined’ shopping bags.  I drive down to Kissamos and apart from the cafes which are still all closed, it looks like business as usual, with few masks in sight, and all kinds of shops seem to be open - the dive shop, the hardware store, the cake shop.  

In the greengrocers there is a cluster of older men, chatting and shopping.  I start with the outside fruit and veg to avoid coming close.  I see two of the men approaching each other as if to shake hands, then deciding to bump elbows instead.  Good that there’s an awareness, maybe not good that there’s no social distance afterwards.  

The supermarket atmosphere also seems more relaxed.  There are perspex screens at the checkouts, but naturally people move to the packing area at the lane exit end where there is no screening.  One male shopper wears a mask, and I see a handful of women doing the same.  Deli servers of cheese and olives wear mask and gloves.  So here’s the thing: at the moment Crete is safe with no new cases for at least 2 weeks and very few deaths altogether.  But once restrictions are lifted and people become relaxed, we are as vulnerable here as anywhere else.  There are so many uncertainties.  Are symptomless people carriers?  For how long?  How long does the virus live - on plastic? On metal? On cardboard packaging?
    
Greece is desperate for its holiday trade, whilst wanting to protect its people.  It is a conundrum.  Here are a couple of links for any of you who are interested.

https://covid19.gov.gr/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Greece-Plan-for-the-gradual-easing-of-COVID-19-restrictive-measures-Introductory-Presentation-28.04.20_EN.pdf

http://www.visitgreece.gr/en/home/about_covid_19


In spite of all that, we got into the car late afternoon and after a false start found one of our favourite swim spots from last year.  It’s a tiny beach (around 4 square metres of sand), but enough to get into the water and SWIM!  A little cool in patches but my water temperature thermometer said 20ºC. Lovely to be in the water although there is is a really scary track, we might have to start walking there.  When I say scary, it’s because over the winter, bites of road have fallen into the sea.  The other side is boundaried by a rock face, so no latitude there. 
Oh yes - I was snorkelling in the shallows and saw something on a rocky ledge below me.  Screaming "It's a water snake" I looked for Al whilst escaping as far away as I could.  Actually it was a very beautiful baby Moray Eel, brown patterned markings and a head like a tiny dragon.

The possible plot, below the road level

Wednesday
 
I woke to see the almost full moon, white in the Western sky and about to dip behind the distant hills. A rare and really breathtaking sight.

Later we get to see another building plot with an agent who sensibly wore gloves and a mask, compiling with the Government advice.  We wore masks.  The site was partly in the village, which meant that the build could happen on a smaller plot than would be needed outside village limits.  The plot was terraced and quite steep from the road. North facing, so some view although not as spectacular as we have here.  It’s affordable but not at the top of our list.  

The plot is below these 2 cars

The whole idea of a house plus studio build here is less certain that it would have been last year - and it was by no means certain then!  The original plan was to be in Crete Spring and Autumn, renting the house out through the hottest summer months.  Of course, that plan depended on cheap and available air travel, although it embarrasses me to say so.  We were also working on the supposition that friends and family would readily visit - many of you have said that you would be enthusiastic for this, but that was pre-C-19.  We were probably going to travel overland for one of our trips, fly the other.  I am going to write more about this in the future, but you can see how the current pandemic deepens our existing dilemma. 

This view from the road, but not really visible from the plot

APOLOGY - I didn't view the RA documentary Monet to Matisse Gardens before putting up the link.  I trusted that it was going to be good.  We atarted to watch and it had all the hallmarks of a terrible documentary that threw away a great subject.  So sorry, I will never do that again!!

To make amends, here is a short film from the TATE on their Aubrey Beardsley Exhibition.  Nowhere near enough of the actual works, but a quick taster of the man and his work, and a reminder for all of us who remember the wild graphics of OZ, the International Times and many familiar album covers of the 1960s.

Coming soon: a week of Yoga and more with Abhijata - and who knows what else!